With a population of around 25,500 lying at the southern tip of the Florida Keys, the island of Key West covers 5.6 square miles and lies 90 miles as the pelican flies, from Havana, Cuba. It enjoys a warm sunny climate all year round. The quintessential party town, Key West performs the neat trick of being the most laid back place on the planet and the richest source of characters I have ever encountered. The bizarre and unusual is everywhere, every hour of every day. 

At the end of William Street alongside the clear warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, lies my favourite watering hole, The Schooner Wharf Bar. I cannot count the hours spent on my visits, over decades spent sitting at the bar in the open air, people watching, scribbling notes in my notebook or more often on the backs of coasters. Who says research has to be a grind? Not me. 

The bartenders are all characters, from places across the USA, from Montana to New York, hardworking, friendly and damn good at their job. Much respect to them all. Live music is performed daily by incredibly talented musicians, much to the delight of the clientele who form the rich vein of crazy characters just begging to be mined.

Working hard on character research in the Schooner Wharf Bar.

Imagine sitting sipping a  Margarita when an old guy turns up on a bicycle with a basket on the front, standing in which is a Jack Russell wearing a bandanna and sunglasses. Perched upon the man’s shoulder, a large very talkative red and yellow parrot. Ten minutes pass and a gang of pirates walk in complete with cutlasses, and eyepatches, a diverse bunch of men and women demanding donations for a local charity at flintlock pistol point.

You could not make it up. No wonder the island has long been a magnet for artists and writers the likes of Ernest Hemingway who’s former house is now a museum exhibiting Hemingway memorabilia.

Listening to guitarist Michael McCloud finger pick his way through a comprehensive repertoire, a singing voice mellowed by years of cigarette smoke and later joining the punters to be astounded by the skill of resident magician Frank Everhart’s close up illusions are experiences I shall treasure always. Trying to capture the atmosphere of the place on the printed page is a challenge but at the same time a pleasure.